Iconic places of Mylapore (Pic courtesy: Manju Sri M, MA Fine Arts)
“Mylapore coffee maathiri irukuma!” “Anna, Kabaleeswarar kovil eppidi poganum?” These are oft heard lines when someone visits Mylapore or when they miss the perfectly blended ‘Mylai’ Filter coffee. The captivating spots of Mylapore form one of the cultural hubs of Chennai.
My journey to Mylapore, a historic neighborhood in Chennai, was a captivating exploration of South India's cultural tapestry. Navigating through the city's bustling streets, I soon found myself in the heart of Mylapore. The streets were lined with colorful shops, small eateries, and fragrant flower stalls. The air was filled with the scent of jasmine, a flower that holds special significance in this part of the world. Wandering through the narrow lanes of Mylapore, I discovered its hidden gems. Quaint art galleries, handcrafted souvenir shops, and antique stores revealed the neighborhood's artistic and cultural essence.
The Kapaleeswarar temple is the cultural legacy of Mylapore since the 7th century. The aesthetics of this temple and the ‘theppa kulam’ (temple pond) exhibit an authentic feel of ancient temples. It has witnessed various dynasties, rulers, and cultural changes, making it a significant historical landmark of Chennai. The temple's architecture showcases the skill and craftsmanship of the artisans of the Chola and Vijayanagara dynasties. The intricate carvings on the walls and pillars are a testament to the artistic prowess of the time. The aroma of ground coffee beans, smell of flowers and incense sticks, and chants of priests that surround the streets of Kapaleeswarar temple hold irresistible charm for devotees visiting this temple.
A student of WCC shares her view about Mylapore thus, “The first thing that comes to my mind when I hear about Mylapore is the famous filter coffee and Kapaleeswarar temple. The strong taste and scent of filter coffee reminds me of my home and gives me a sense of belonging in a city that’s not my own.” The famous coffee roaster in Mylapore is ‘Geetha Coffee’ where they sell coffee powder at a 90:10 ratio of coffee to chicory. It is hard to find such rich coffee blends nowadays, but Geetha Coffee has managed to do this for around 30 years.
Mylapore is incomplete without ‘Karpagambal Mess’ and ‘Jannal Kadai Bajji”. These two food spots are much sought after by people in search of traditional South Indian dishes in and around Chennai. These shops hold the legacy of providing delicious food for generations. There is a unique fan base for the different kinds of ‘bajjies’ available in Jannal Kadai. They still use the old and authentic method of preparing food and it is amusing to hear them assert, “No Gpay ma, only cash”. The locals are delighted when they say that Karpagambal Mess is the Annalakshmi of Mylapore.
The Ramakrishna Mutt of Mylapore stands as an icon of architecture. It is a blend of Dravidian, Islamic, Christian and Buddhist styles. The facade of a huge stone manuscript at the entrance is reminiscent of Mughal architecture. The Mutt has intricately carved and decorated columns which give a sense of grandeur.
The Santhome Basilica Cathedral also situated at Mylapore, has great historical significance. The Santhome Church was erected as a mausoleum in honour of St. Thomas, one of Jesus Christ’s twelve apostles and also houses his tomb. Its unique status as one of the three Basilicas built over the tombs of Jesus Christ's disciples, makes it a site of immense historical and spiritual significance. The church’s museum displays relics related to the great St. Thomas. Moreover, this church is built in Neo-Gothic architectural style which is inspired from old Victorian cathedrals. This architectural style is exhibited in the geometrical design and pinnacle in the exterior, and stained glass windows behind the main altar.
Reflecting on my day spent in Mylapore, I felt a deep sense of connection with the rich heritage and traditions that define this neighborhood. The blend of spirituality, art, music, and gastronomy created an unforgettable experience, leaving me with a yearning to return and explore more of Chennai's cultural treasures.